Sabrina Bias

3 things you can do to set your bleach and tone results apart: 1. Start on the top of the head. Why? The air from the room circulates there the most, so it will be a cooler temperature. The hair from the crown of the head, down to the nape of the neck naturally traps in body heat, so that area will always be hotter than the top of the head. Even though the heat is natural, it’s going to process quicker in that area because of it. (The nape of the neck and the hair line are usually where the finest hair strands are, so I often save them for last.) 2. Use a non swelling lightener. Your application might be super clean, but if your bleach is swelling you are getting unwanted overlap and are risking breakage. 3. Stop adding heat in the form of a cap. When you are trapping in body heat with a cap you are risking swelling and overlapping. I live in one of the coldest cities in America (Chicago) and I have never needed to add additional heat. Trust me, this body heat is more than enough! My preferred lightener is Blond Studio 9, bonder inside. •I never need to add extra bond builders. •It doesn’t swell. •It’s comfortable on scalp. We always talk about hair texture, elasticity, and porosity, but are you factoring in their temperature? 🌡️ #lorealproambassador #lorealpro #chicagoblondespecialist #platniumblonde #chicagoblonde #blondespecialists #bleachandtone #scalpbleach #haireducation #haireducator @lot@framar

Bleach is not to blame for breakage, technique is. The most popular controversial comment I get with my bleach and tones is that starting in the front is “damaging” because the front of the hair is fine and weak. Interestingly enough, this is never controversial when highlighting a Mohawk section, or starting with a money piece, or babylights around the hairline. Even though these pieces are put in foils and creating more heat, the sectioning is wildly accepted. My main goal with my bleach and tones education is to take the fear out of this service. With proper technique, a both gentle and powerful lightener, and practice, truly any professional colorist can achieve these clean and healthy results. Online and in person edu coming this year! Prepped with Metal Detox Lightened with Blond Studio 9, bonder inside Treated with Absolut Repair Molecular #lorealproambassador #lorealpro #chicagoblondespecialist #platniumblonde #chicagoblonde #bleachandtone #blondespecialists #scalpbleach #haireducation #haireducator #explorepage✨ #fyp #fypシ #hairtok

Replying to @Erinn Montoya yes, I use a chopstick instead of the end of my brush when doing bleach and tones. Having a chopstick to section keeps things clean and precise. I use both that and wet towel to constantly wipe things down in order to keep my sections clean. My tray set up looks like this: •bowl of lightener •@framar triple threat brush or the detailed pin tail brush •chopstick for sectioning •wet towel to wipe off excess lighter •brush/comb •bowl of conditioner, only if I’m doing a color correction. #chicagoblondespecialist #platniumblonde #chicagoblonde #bleachandtone #blondespecialists #scalpbleach #haireducation #haireducator #fyp #fypシ #hairtok

Replying to @faster loud and wrong #fyp #hairtok #platniumblonde #scalpbleach #bleachandtone #blondespecialists

Your fear of bleach is feeding your fear of bleach, but bleach is not to blame. Let me break it down: You are afraid of damaging your clients hair, so you rush through your application to get the bleach on the head as fast as possible. You even start in the back because you have a fear that it will lift so fast that you have to rinse it before the front is done. Then you either anxiously rinse because you *feel* like it’s been on for a long time. You might even worse, add heat because you *think* it’ll help you achieve the level 10 you desire. You get back to your station and the hair is weak, broken, and / or uneven. You might tell your client to stay away from brushing too much when wet, use no heat, and “after a couple of washes at home it’ll fade to the color.” Then you walk away feeling correct for being afraid of bleach. But what if there was another way? •What if you chose a better pre-treatment, like Metal Detox pre treatment spray so that you aren’t lifting through metals in the hair that get in there from water? •What if you chose a safe and effective lightener, like Blond Studio 9 with bonder already inside? It’s safe and comfortable on scalp, it is capable of 9 levels of lift, and most importantly it doesn’t swell. •What if you started your application in the front, leaving out just the hairline until last? What if you just tried it before you thought of all the ways you think it won’t work? •What if you didn’t add any heat, in the form of a cap or a hooded dryer and allowed your lightener to work as slow as it’s intended to? •What if you set a timer and walked away and just your bleach do its job? •What if you practiced on a brunette mannequin everyday until your application was clean and without overlap? What if the bleach isn’t something fear, but just a tool that we can learn to use better? What if? #lorealproambassador #lorealpro #chicagoblondespecialist #platniumblonde #chicagoblonde #blondespecialists #bleachandtone #haireducation #scalpbleach #haireducator @L’Oréal Professionnel

When someone goes longer than 4-5 weeks the first things I have to take into consideration are: 1. Natural starting level 2. Hair density 3. Hair texture The approach I took this time is because I’m working with grown out, coarse to medium, level 2 hair. Some of the things I did differently, that I don’t do for all hair types were: 1. Use foil. Not all hair could handle the extra (natural) heat that foil introduces. 2. Start in the back. I usually don’t do this, because it builds too much (natural) heat. However, the back of her hair is more coarse, and because of hormonal changes that come with postpartum and post breast-feeding, the front is slightly more fine. 3. Do 3 passes, I usually do 2, but this situation called for more. Things I ALWAYS do regardless of the hair: 1. Use Blond Studio 9, bonder inside. It has the lift I need, it doesn’t swell, and most importantly it’s been the most comfortable lighter of any I’ve ever used on my client’s scalp. 2. Prep with Metal Detox. I’m up against enough, I’m not going to lighten through metals too. 3. I never add any artificial heat. Not even a blow dryer with a diffuser. Never. I have so much in the pipe line for longer form education this year, but what other color and blonding questions do you guys have? @L’Oréal Professionnel @framar #lorealproambassador #lorealpro #metaldetox #blondstudio #blondstudio9 #bleachandtone #scalpbleach #haireducation #haireducator #blondespecialists #platniumblonde #colorspecialists #chicagoblondespecialist

Replying to @Lauda slow is smooth, smooth is fast 🤌🏾 #fyp #hairtok #platniumblonde #bleachandtone #haireducation

You don’t need stronger bleach. You need to utilize the pH scale. We talk about the level of the hair. We talk about the color wheel. We tend to neglect the science of pH. Some hair shouldn’t be pushed to lift to a level 10 with lighter, but that doesn’t mean that we can’t achieve a platinum look. The basics: we’re only focused on numbers 0-14 Water lives at a 7, meaning she’s perfectly neutral. Hair lives at a natural pH of 4.5-5.5 Below that is acidic, so think of it as closing the hairs cuticle. Example: conditioner. Above that is alkaline. Example: Permanent hair color. When choosing a toner, the pH of the toner will greatly change the outcome of your end result. This is my process of choosing my toner: I lifted to a level 9 (yellow 🟡) I need to neutralize (violet 🟣) I also want the hair to be cool toned (violet 🟣 + blue 🔵) So choosing my toner, I’m going to formulate to a level 9, using violet and blue 9.1 + 8.2 + Clear But how do I choose between Dia light, Dia color, and what volume developer to use? Well Dia light is acidic (closing the cuticle). Dia color is alkaline (opening the cuticle). I’m going with Dia color in this scenario, because I want to open the cuticle to have more opaque color coverage. Final formula: @lorealpro Dia Color 9.1 + 8.2 + Clear + 15 Volume #diacolor #lorealpro #lorealproambassador #bleachandtone #scalpbleach #haircolorist #blondingtechniques #blondespecialists #haireducation #hairtips @L’Oréal Professionnel

Replying to @Alexza Maldonado Prep with a Metal Detox Spray Lightened with Blond Studio 9, bonder inside Toned with Dia Color (2)9.1+ (1)8.2 + (1)clear + 9 volume #tonerformula #hairformula #hairtok #bleachandtone #scalpbleach #fyp #lorealpro #lorealproambassador #blondespecialist #platniumblonde #colorspecialist @L’Oréal Professionnel