This spot hadn’t gotten even close to this big since 2005. A lot of us thought it would never happen again. It needs to be a massive swell and be perfectly aimed to fit between two islands. When it finally all came together that day it was even better than we imagined it would be. 10ft near 20 second barrels and not a drop of water out of place 🤯 #maui #surfing #surfpodcast #lennybros
Usually when you are getting caught inside at a wave as big as Jaws the move is to let go of your board and swim through it. This time my mind slipped and I instictually started duck diving as if it were a tiny wave. Before I realized my mistake it was too late and I was bracing for the impact of getting sucked back over. Luckily I barely squeeked through and didn’t get smoked haha #jaws #wipeout #caughtinside #lennybros #surfing
I ended up a bit too far back on this wave and it almost made me pay big time 😳 Luckily it barely let me around it. Ngl I was kinda rattled after that haha #surfing #bigwaves #jaws